Q & A Time

Hello, Sixth Grade! I am pleased to report that I received your first letter, which arrived just before the end of training. It’s just now reaching me here in Piura, and is filled with excellent questions. I will answer these questions based on my current life in Potrerillo, since by now I have spent more time in my community than I spent in Lima. So here are my answers, I hope they satiate your curiosity. P.S.: I am not technically in the Andes, but there is still a great of influence from Andean culture, as I am finding out.

• Do Peruvians hunt, and if so, what kind of game?
I have not seen much hunting here. Some people fish and many more people raise chickens, pigs, goats, cows and ducks; but not many people have the custom of hunting with rifles or bow and arrow.

• What are some wild animals you have seen? Are there wild giant reptiles? Have you seen any creatures that are not allowed in the U.S.?
Around the valley where I live, I have seen many creatures, ranging from foxes to crabs to iguanas! I also have seen toads, pigeons, and once I thought I saw a wildcat. The former volunteer in Potrerillo told me that she once saw a monkey, though it may have been an escaped pet. My host dad claims to have seen otters in the river that passes through the valley, but I have yet to see those. I don’t know which if any of these creatures are not “allowed” in the U.S., although it’s illegal to smuggle animals into the U.S. Perú has a great biodiversity, particularly in its jungle regions in the eastern regions of the country bordering Brazil. I am planning to visit the selva region during my first vacation in a few months, I’ll definitely see some interesting animals then!




• What sports do Peruvians enjoy?
As in most of South America, soccer is the most popular sport, and many communities have their own small soccer clubs. Volleyball is also popular among both women and men, while basketball is known but not played as often. Softball, baseball and “American” football are virtually unknown. Soccer is definitely the king, with national and regional matches dominating local interest.

• What types of food and drink are typical where you live? Are there any traditional foods you have eaten? Do you have to be careful about what you eat and drink? Do they drink maté?
Here in Potrerillo, most of my meals consist of rice, potatoes (either yuca or camote) and chicken. My family occasionally fixes ceviche, a dish consisting of fish marinated in lime juice and onions, accompanied by beans or corn as a side. This dish is particularly delicious when ordered in restaurants in Piura City, as are thick seafood chowders called chupes. Though not as prominent in my area, guinea pig (cuy) is a popular traditional dish throughout Peru, and I had the opportunity to try cuy frito when I visited Cajamarca during training. Guinea pig raising at home is actually an important part of many Peace Corps projects in Peru, as they are a good source of protein. Other popular dishes include goat, duck with rice, and (at least in my house) homemade cheese and thick flour tortillas.
Though most of the food I have eaten has by and large been delicious, I do have to be careful about what I eat. Eating food bought from street vendors is not recommended, and I have to make sure that water has been boiled before drinking it. My work here in Peru includes improving hygiene practices, though inevitably I have a little stomach or intestinal distress…thus is the life of a Peace Corps volunteer.
As far as maté goes, we don’t have the maté typical of the Rio Plata region (Argentina, Uruguay, southern Brazil.) More common in the sierra is maté de coca, a tea made with the Andean coca leaf, a plant that has deep significance for the indigenous people in this part of the world. Unfortunately, drug traffickers use the coca leaf to make the essential ingredient for the drug cocaine; and as a result, use of coca products (such as maté) is prohibited for Peace Corps volunteers. Maté de coca, however, has none of the effects of cocaine, and is legally consumed throughout Peru. The fate of the coca leaf has been an important flashpoint in regional politics, particularly in Bolivia just south of Peru.



• Can Peruvians speak English fluently?
Not unless they are very well educated. Spanish is the most widely spoken language, though there still exists people who speak almost exclusively Quechua, Aymara, and other dialects day to day. Believe it or not, many Peruvians have asked me the same question: if Americans speak castellano (Spanish) fluently.

• Are there horses? Are there cars? Are there wells?
Yes to all three. Many people ride horses in Potrerillo, to get to and from their fields and to help plow. Not many people own cars, leading us to rely on bicycles, motorcycles, moto-taxis, or colectivo taxis to get around. Freshwater wells exist as an alternative to the muddy canals that farmers use to irrigate their fields, though the water has to be purified before drinking!

• Are there any ancient temples around where you live?
There aren’t any ruins in the vicinity, though I’m definitely planning trips that will take me to some incredible sites. I’ll write about those when I make those visits!

• Who inspired you to join the Peace Corps?
I was not inspired by one person in particular to join the Peace Corps, though I was encouraged by two former volunteers (one an SA graduate and the other a Millsaps graduate) during the application process. I read about Peace Corps extensively online before applying, and I knew that I wanted to live abroad and work in a worthwhile international endeavor. Peace Corps offered the best opportunity to do this, and now I’m here, learning a great deal.



That’s most of the questions…I guess better late than never! (or as Peruvians say: más vale tarde que nunca.) Keep sending me your questions, if not at my current address by email. I will be keeping you updated on developments here,

Hasta pronto,
Douglas M.

Peruvian Music

Greetings...Douglas here, with my first real entry on this blog. I recently sent a letter, detailing a typical day in my host family in Potrerillo. Of course, that should arrive in about two weeks, but in the mean time I wanted to make an update on Peruvian music: the music that we volunteers hear every day, literally from dawn 'til dusk. Though some might associate Peruvian music with panpipes and flutes (typically called zampoñas and quenas here,) or even the Simon and Garfunkel song "El Condor Pasa," the dominant form of music is cumbia, a Latin beat that can be found from Mexico to Argentina. I think cumbia originated as a style in Colombia, and now has its own forms in Peru. See below.


This is a video for a popular group called Grupo 5, which plays cumbia tropical...upbeat melodies, lots of brass instruments, bongos, cowbells, and the ever-present cumbia beat pulsing underneath. These kind of songs blare out of every bus and stereo in the country it seems, and it's absolutely essential party music, particularly on the coast.


This song is an example of cumbia sanjuanera, a cumbia that is originally from Piura (where I live.) The group is called Corazón Serrano, and they are the self-proclaimed kings of cumbia sanjuanera. I would say they are more diverse than other groups of their genre, but they have the typical instrumentation: the cumbia beat with guitar and synthesizer riffs giving it an electronic glitz. I find this music quite catchy and actually bearable to listen to, which is fortunate.


This last example is from the singer Sonia Morales, perhaps the most famous representative of huayno, (pronounced whine-oh) a combination of syncopated rhythms, feet stomping, and rapid harp playing. Quite different from upbeat cumbia, the songs often have nostalgic themes, and are particularly popular in the Andean sierra: in Cuzco, Ayacucho, Puno and Ancash, where there are large concentrations of indigenous peoples. This music takes a little getting used to for most Americans, but is ubquitous in these regions, and even has its own energetic dance and traditional costumes, as you'll probably see in the video.

Of course, this isn't an exhaustive look at all Peruvian music, just some of the most popular forms that I've noticed. There's much more though: the traditional marinera dance, musica criolla (African rhythms blended with Spanish guitar) and even Peruvian heavy metal and new wave (lots of influence from the English-speaking world, though they sing in Spanish.) Hope this update was interesting, let me know what you think of this sampling of the Top 40 from the Southern Hemisphere!

Douglas M.

P.S. I recently got the letter sent in November...it has a lot of good questions, and I will try to answer most of them next week. Hasta entonces...

January 1, 2009

Dear St. Andrew's 6th Grade,

Greetings and happy new year! I've been in my community at Poerecillo, Peru for almost a month now, adjusting to my new home and family. I have been experiencing the Peruvian holiday season. New Year's Eve was yesterday, and in celebration my host family burned a large life-size straw dummy, signifying the death of the old year. I've sent some pictures ahead by e-mail of the burning . . . everyone was surprised to learn that we don't do the same thing in the States! Christmas was also different from my usual family celebration at home in Jackson. It was still a family affair, with relatives coming together and toasting the birth of Jesus at the stroke of midnight on Dec. 24. My host family also served a meal, to which I added a cucumber and tomato salad. I thought it added a touch of flavor to the chicken and noodles! While fruits are relatively plentiful here (plums, mangoes, papayas, apples), vegetables are harder to come by . . . people just don't eat lettuce or salads. I've been thinking about a garden project behind the local health post, possibly to grow vegetables that people would not normally eat. It's still only an idea now (a good deal of planning will be necessary to make it a success!) for I hope to talk it up with community members, especially mothers.

Next week, I'm having the sign ups for my summer course that I think I mentioned in my last e-mail. I have been coordinating with the local school since my first week . . . I want to get used to walking in the institution, so that when the next semester starts I can plan some more long range health programs. This summer's program will be a course for adolescents (life skills: self-esteem, communication skills, thinking about the future, etc.), which I hope will be popular. Also, I am offering a singing/music course (which ties in with my own interest in music) and a mini-English course, which I'm thinking will be the most popular. People are VERY excited that I'm teaching English, but I don't want it to get out of hand. I came to be a health volunteer and giving little English classes in the summer for me is just a secondary activity. While I have some ESL (English as a Second Language) teaching/tutoring experience, this part of the summer course makes me the most nervous. So, be wishing me luck with my first little project!

I've been going to meetings and visiting neighboring casieros (villages), but I have had a good deal of down time. I've been reading, journaling, and even trying to bake. I made banana bread yesterday for New Year's, which I thought turned out quite nicely.

Before I close, I wanted to give an alert for a possible new dimension to our correspondence in the future. In the next two years (at least!) there are plans to bring computers to Poerecillo, through the local district municipality. Neighboring towns with computer centers sometimes have Internet. What if we could start an exchange between this class and a Peruvian class? Another idea may or may not work . . . I will keep you posted if the prospects look bright. In any case, I hope this update was enjoyable, and that I have more exciting news in the next. Good luck this semester, we'll be in touch.

Sincerely,

Douglas M.

October 12, 2008

Dear St. Andrew's 6th Grade,

Greetings once again from Peru! It's hard to believe that a month ago I was in Washington, DC, just meeting my fellow volunteers. Hopefully, by this time next month, I will know my site assignment and my home for the next two years. The only thing we know for certain at this point is that we will be in one of the departments (equivalent of states in the U.S., only less independent from central government) to the north of Lima. We could be on the coast, the "Sierra," or highlands of the Andes, or even in the desert! Everyone is very anxious to know.
Lately in our training classes, we have been learning about child nutrition and the importance of breastfeeding for infants. Many children throughout the world don't receive proper feeding in the first two years of their lives, resulting in stunted growth and improper development of the brain. By encouraging mothers and their families to adopt healthy, varied diets, young children will grow up healthy and stronger, as well as better equipped to break the cycles of poverty in their community. It's a slow process, but little by little health promoters are making progress in rural Peru.

Among the most interesting training sessions we've had have been in La Universidad Agrarin (Agriculture University) on Saturday mornings. We learn basics of planting, compost and general farming so we can be better prepared for the reality of our sites, where gardens, potato fields, and animal raising are important parts of life. This past Saturday, we were introduced to the University's beehives and cuy (pronounced COO-ee) pens. We got an up close view of honey-producing bees, which often provide important sources of extra income in certain regions where we will be assigned. We got to taste honey straight from the "colmena" (beehive) but I accidentally got stung! It was pretty intimidating being surrounded by bees (we had on face masks) and I put my hand on one of them by accident. We also saw the cuy pens, which in case you didn't know, are what we call guinea pigs. Though it might be hard to believe, guinea pigs are a delicacy here, and an important source of protein. One day soon, I'll probably be giving it a try . . .

This past week, we also had a holiday, which a few of us used to explore a small town 40KM from our town. The holiday was October 8, the anniversary of Peru's only naval victory in the late 19th Century against Chile. We were far from the seashore, however, opting to go to San Pedro de Casta, about 3200M above sea level, only accessible by ascending a windy dirt road for three hours in a mini bus (called a "combi" here). We went to explore some interesting rock formations outside the pueblico, but we arrived too late in the day to enjoy properly the hike, so we watched a series of horse races that ended in the central plaza of San Pedro. The town is unique (I found out later) because its population is of indigenous Aymarn descent, a culture usually found closer to Bolivia around Lake Titicaca. In the north, there are a significant number of Quechun speakers, some who speak it as their first language. Maybe you can help me . . . what are the differences between Quechua and Aymara? Are there other indigenous groups in Peru?
Well, that's about all for now. No gifts this time, though I'm thinking of setting up a photo site to share some of the pics I've taken with you all. In any case, I hope this letter arrives just as easily as the last one, and that all is well back at SA!

Hasta pronto,

Douglas M.

December 3, 2008

Dear Matthew and St. Andrew's 6th grade,




Hola and greetings from Perú! As you know, I am devoted to writing actual letters, but I felt like I should send an email update this time so that this communication reaches you before Christmas break. I feel like it has been awhile since I have filled you in on my Peace Corps experience in Perú. I am currently in the city of Piura in the northern part of Peru, only a few hours from the border of Ecuador. Tomorrow, I will be taking a bus and two colectivo taxis to get to my new community of Potrerillo, a small group of towns numbering about 1000 inhabitants. I thought when I went to Peru that I would be living in the mountains, surrounded by fog and the Andes, but where I will be is relatively flat! The region of Piura is actually part of one of the largest deserts in South America, but my area is quite green, due to the nearby presence of a reservoir. Most of the people are farmers, and grow rice, corn, and fruits such as mangos. I am a replacement volunteer in my site: the previous volunteer worked there for two years and is now returning to the states to begin medical school. I will be picking off where she left off (she did a lot of work coordinating the construction of latrines) and also starting some projects of my own (I am looking forward to working in the local school, which here is called a colegio.) Even though a volunteer worked here for two years and did some excellent work, there is still alot to tackle!

Once again I will be living with a host family: two older parents, two children (a daughter and son) and five grandchildren. Also, we have a dog, two cats, and pigs, ducks, turkeys, chickens, and cows. I am really living out in the country! I will take pictures of my house and room when I finally get settled in, but I am lucky that I have a concrete floor and brick walls. I still need to oversee some finishing touches on my room (it needs a door, it needs spaces between the roof and the wall closed off to keep out mosquitos) but in no time it will be my new home away from home.


By the way, I have attached a few photos this time, since I know everyone is very curious about the things I am seeing. I regret that a) I am not a very good photographer and b) my Internet connections have been too slow to update many photos, but these are a few shots from Piura City and the reservoir about 15 minutes from my site. The area is very beautiful, and while it is typically quite hot, the nights are very pleasant. So what will I be doing when I get to site? My first priority is to get to know my community. We have been told numerous times that you have to gain the confianza (confidence) of the community members before starting any major project. As I said before, I want to work in the schools, but a few weeks afer I arrive, the schools get out for summer break! (Remember, I am in the southern hemisphere, and the seasons are switched around...we are nearing the end of "primavera" here.) Imagine if after Christmas you had vacations until March! This means that I will need to think quick if I want to plan a summer program for the school kids, whether it be an English club or sessions with older kids on strategies on how to make plans for their future.


These first three months will be, more than anything, a process of introductions and "getting to know you" between the community and myself. Well, it is getting late and I am tired. If I don't get the chance to write before Christmas break, have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year in Mississippi. I will send you more updates as I figure out my place in Potrerillo!

Sincerely,




Douglas M.